The following is from a thread posted on the KawasakiTriplesWorldwide message board by Dieseldr:

I checked my files and yes, I still have all the notes & drawings from Kevin for the Paul Ricard pipes.  However, my notes say they are for a KR-750, but he told me that they work well on the H2.  Plus all my notes about every detail he gave me about modification of the H2 engine and transmission for racing. Kevin never made any secret of anything he knew for the H2, but I remember his competition w/ Erv Kanemoto for the best TZ ports was very private!
Anyway, I'll have to ask Kevin if it is OK to publish any of the info & notes I have from our numerous interviews, "just because".
The last time I communicated with Kevin, there was no INTERNET outside of a couple of university labs. So I have no e-mail for him.
I'll mail an actual paper letter to his Mass. address and see what occurs.

This is a post about H2 chambers designed by Kevin Cameron.
I raced an H2 in the 70's on the New England tracks.  Kevin Cameron usually attended the AAMRR races, and I had read his articles about his privateer racing the H2.
So I bugged him every time he walked by my spot in the pits.  Eventually I started going over to his house in the off-season.
I would take H2 parts to be modified, and lists of questions.
I kept my notes from those interviews, and hope that some of the other H2 fans find them entertaining.
I knew that the DENCO cones I welded up for my racer were not optimum, so the notes are what Kevin told me to do to construct a proper pipe for it.
As you can see, it is an amazing amount of labor to make this type of pipe, much less try to make 3 of them.
I did not have the talent or time to do it, and Kevin had the good sense to spend his time making TZ chambers instead of a one-of-a-kind set for my H2 motor in an H1 frame weirdness.

If making tapered head pipe, taper must be rolled and welded every 3/4".  Alternative is to run round tube head pipe, (order from Warshasky catalogue).  Try 1 5/8" ID and 1 3/4" ID pipes.  Note: Change angle/length of first cone to match up with round pipe.  Note: Purchase flanges for ex. pipe from Warshasky catalogue with 43mm ID, do not use double flanges, seal with silicone glue.  I may choose to cut inner flange out of my present flanges. -- But may have smaller ID than required, 43mm ID.
Call cone company, 702-456-4177,8,9 (Las Vegas), to order by phone.  Cones should cost $3-$4 ea.  Specify "rolled and butted 20 gauge".  All measurements will be in mm or in.  Don't need the angles, just OD on both ends and length.  Also - get mufflers with length about 6" over end of stinger, with ID of about 1 1/16".
When welding pipes, butt ends together, no gaps over 1mm, weld at angle shown with "00" tip in pattern shown.  (see drawing)  Be sure to get "yellow" fusion bond, no cold welds.