H1 Rebuild
as documented by Goldminer on KTOG board

I bought this bike back in 1979 for $400, I rode it around quite a bit but had a few close calls and a lot of speeding tickets so I decided to park it for a bit. I even got a ticket for drag racing, but that was back in the good old days when the cops would just give you a ticket and say ďDonít do that againĒ and send you on your way.

It has been stored in the back yard of my momís house covered with a tarp for way too long. Living in an apartment I had no place to store it or work on it, so there it sat. I finally got a house with a garage so I decided to drag it home; I do mean drag it because both wheels were locked up.






 
I didnít have the money to restore it so I borrowed it from my retirement account, you know a couple thousand dollars and a few months and I will have it back on the road, Yea Right, over $9,000 in parts so far and I am looking at least $2,000 more. If restoring and riding this bike does not cure my midlife crisis nothing will.

I hosed the bike down with PB Blaster and let it sit for a week. The missus now gave the bike a new name, ďOld StinkyĒ.  

So I started taking it apart and everything went smooth until I got to the engine. I could not remove the exhaust header collar from the left cylinder so I disconnected the muffler and was able to turn the header enough to clear the frame to get the engine out.

Once up on the work bench I tried to remove the cylinders but all three were stuck so I filled up the head bolt holes with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day and they still would not come off so I made a press to pull them off.


 
 
The right cylinder was a little stubborn but finally submitted, the center cylinder came off with no complaints, but the left cylinder would not come off. For almost a month I tried everything including  PB Blaster, WD 40, carburetor cleaner, Liquid Wrench, parts cleaner, WD 40 penetrating oil, vinegar, Evapo Rust, and even a special concoction of acetone and transmission fluid, all followed by heat from a pencil torch until it bubbled and it still would not come off.

It was time to stop messing around and break out the big guns, yes Phosphoric Acid. Thatís the active ingredient in Naval Jelly and other rust removal products. They donít sell that stuff in California so I had to mail order it. When it finally arrived I put on long sleeve clothing, rubber gloves and a full face shield and had a cup full of baking soda (Neutralizes acid) standing by just in case of an accident, unfortunately I would need it.
 
I made up a small batch of acid diluted with 50% water in a small bowl and dropped in an exhaust header collar and the rustiest bolt I could find and fifteen minutes later the bolt looked brand new. After thirty minutes of soaking there were no adverse effects to the exhaust header collar or the bolt so using a syringe I squirted some down the head bolt holes. About fifteen seconds later my hand starting hurting, I looked at the glove and there were no holes in it so I peeled back the glove and to my surprise my hand was covered with blood. I quickly removed the glove poured baking soda onto the top of my hand and started rubbing it into my hand and then washed it off to reveal two holes in the top of my hand. Needless to say the next day I bought some chemical gloves.

After tending to my hand I went back to the engine that had been sitting for about thirty minutes and sprinkled some baking soda down the holes and set up the press and it still would not come off. The next day I let it soak for two hours and still no go, the next day I tried full strength and let it soak for one hour and it looked like it might have budged a hair. The next day at full strength I let it soak for four hours and it started to move, using a rubber mallet I hit up on the header and down on the top of the cylinder over a hundred times and it finally came off.  

Now onto the stuck header, I cut off the header so about an inch was left and cut slits into the pipe and the collar and the same on the inside of the pipe being careful not to cut into the port and then using a punch I pounded the slit inside the pipe until I could see the copper gasket and started knocking off the cut pieces of the collar until it popped off.


 
Now onto the locked up wheels, I poured Evapo Rust into the vent on the rear wheel and used a pump type oil can full of Evapo Rust I filled up the front wheel though the return spring hole and after two days of wrestling with the wheels they came apart.     

To be continued.

I tried to paint the frame myself several times and things did not go right. I used super jet black urethane acrylic single stage paint and being an amateur I could not get the quality of finish that I was looking for. From what I understand the clear coat is mixed into the paint and as the paint dries the clear rises to the surface so if you have any issues and try to sand it you end up sanding off the clear. I finally gave up and had it powder coated gloss black.


 
I installed a new polished x-ring chain, new bronze swing arm bushings, new swing arm sleeves, new swing arm O-rings and a new swing arm nut. Next came the new reproduction shocks and new shock bolts and nuts and a NOS grab handle.  

Notes:
Chain: I had the local Kawasaki shop rivet the chain and had to loop the swing arm through it before installing the swing arm.

Swing arm: I took the swing arm into the house to warm it up to get it to expand, and put the bushings in the freezer to get them to contract to ease the installation of the bushings. Packed lots of high temperature disc brake grease into the swing arm.

Grab handle: I dropped off the original grab handle at the chrome shop and will install it on the other side; I think the passenger can hang on to the handles but I am not sure.

Bolts: I used Anti-Seize on all the bolts.

Comments: I don't know if this would matter to you, but in regards to your shocks, for the 69-72 H1's, the shocks actually appear more like these, having approximately 3 closely wound coils at the bottom as opposed to the ones you show.  


Also - the very early '69 H1 shocks have a "sand cast" adjuster at the bottom - they are getting hard to find....

Looks like I was sold the wrong parts again. I am trying to improve the handing, such as bronze swing arm bushings and roller bearings for the steering stem. So it is probably best that I get the right shocks. I bought these shocks over 30 days ago so I canít send them back so I guess I will just add them to my ever growing pile of wrong parts.

I would like to get as original as possible on the reproduction parts but right now one of my goals is to increase my life span when riding my bike by improving the safety of the bike. I plan on doing several modifications to the bike that will be completely reversible.

It looks like I have a numbers correct bike, the frame number is 10 lower than the engine. I agree with most of you whether it be a car or motorcycle, if the numbers match, keep it original, if not it is ok to modify, but again everything will be completely reversible.

I will be uploading a post in the next few days showing one of the modifications.

Install the battery box, rectifier, voltage regulator, box A, box B, dual air horn and compressor and coil using polished stainless steel bolts.


 
Notes:

Bolts: Did you know that there are over 500 bolts, screws, nuts and washers on this bike. I am replacing most of them with stainless steel. There are a few special bolts that I am using NOS bolts that have a rounded head edge, like the handle bar clamps, gas tank and the triple clamp. I will be using the original sprocket bolts because they are high strength bolts. The stainless steel bolts that I got have raised lettering so I have to grind off the lettering and then sand off the scratches them buff to a mirror finish. I will be using anti seize compound on all bolts.    

Comments: Might I suggest blue Loctite?

I was thinking about using Loctite because the bike vibrates so much but was not sure if I can use it with anti-seize. I was reading that you should use anti-seize on stainless steel bolts plus the powder coating guy cleaned all the bolt holes and it looked like they were starting to rust and from what I can tell the anti-seize is some kind of lubricant.

Maybe I could use anti-seize on the bolt and screw it in then remove the bolt and clean it and put Loctite on it?

Comments: Threads have to be absolutely clean of anything oil based. You anti-seize things and the bike will fall apart right underneath you. The only fasteners you really could benefit using anti-seize would be the 12 cylinder studs shanks, as well as the outside shanks of the cylinder head bolts, to prevent future corroding and seizing.  I also use a thin film of it on gasket surfaces that have a tendency to stick, such as intake manifold, clutch cover, and cylinder base.
  
Thanks everyone for your comments.

I will pick up some blue Loctite tomorrow. I was thinking about spraying carburetor cleaner on the bolts and in the bolt holes to remove the anti-seize compound. I have 12 new cylinder studs and will use the anti-seize on them.

Battery Box: to insure proper grounding I removed paint from the upper mounts on the battery box and on the corresponding locations on the frame and on the frame horn bracket and used gloss black enamel model paint to touch it up.

Electronic Components: Tested the rectifier, voltage regulator and box A. if you are using an analog ohm meter it will work fine when testing the rectifier, but a digital meter may not work using the ohm function so you must use the diode function, at least on the cheap meter that I was using, took me a couple of hours to figure that out.  

Air Horn: This is a 118db dual air horn and let me tell you this sucker is loud. If you try to cut me off or pull out in front of me you better be wearing a diaper because when I hit the horn it will scare the crap out of you. It is almost completely hidden, if you squat down you can just see the bottom of the horn under the gas tank. This modification is completely reversible and a must for me. I have been run off the road, pushed into oncoming traffic and cut off so many times I have lost count and the wimpy stock horn is pretty much worthless, now this is what I call a horn. What a project that was, took me over 2 weeks and was like trying stuff 20 pounds of potatoes in a 10 pound sack. If anyone is interested I will start another thread on this modification, not sure what topic to put it under.  

Coil: The coil needed to be installed backwards because the air horn was in the way, I havenít installed the main harness yet but it looks like the wires are long enough to reach the coil.

I just got some new fork tubes for my 69 H1 from Z1 parts and it only has a small hole where as the old tube has a small and large hole, so it looks like I need to drill a hole. Just wanted to check to see what you guys think before drilling, thanks.


Comment: It appears someone may have added the big hole, judging by the rough surroundings. My guess is these holes effect rebound damping in the early forks..
Normally the rebound holes are modified to a smaller size as a handling improvement in the later forks (to increase the rebound damping)...
FWIW, My suggestion is to NOT drill any additional holes in your new tubes..

Yea, I was thinking the original owner drilled out the holes in the fork tubes as he also added 1 inch springs to the front end. I leave the fork tubes as is and will try it with the extra springs and if it is too firm I will take them out.

firefour1 wrote:
On the new fork tubes you purchased from Z1, did they send new lower bushings that fit on the bottom end?  If not, how did you remove the old ones with the pressed in locking pins?  Am about to order tubes from Z1 but cannot be sure how to take the old ones apart.

No new lower bushings and no instructions. I used a blunt chisel and they came off without too much trouble, not sure if that was the right way but it worked. The edges of the holes that the pins go in are slightly tapered so it pushes the pin up.

After you get the bushings off remove the pins and put the bushing on the new tubes (With the washers) so you could mark where to drill the holes. It is kind of tricky because you donít want to drill all the way through the tube. Start off with a small drill bit and work your way up putting the bushing back on to see where you are at before moving up to the next bit.  If the hole is a little off you can correct it with the next size bit by angling the drill. if you drill all the through you will be ok and now know how deep to drill.

For example in the picture the hole is off to the right and I need to move it to the left I angle the drill and drill for a few seconds then straighten the drill so it is straight up and down and drill the rest of the way.



 
The problem is after drilling the final size the bottom of the hole is cone shaped and the pin did not go in deep enough and I did not want to go too far so I had a spare bit that I ground the tip flat so I could drill out the cone part.

Lots of work but little progress so it seems. Took the bike apart and cleaned the anti-seize off the nuts and bolts using spray carb cleaner and used Loctite on all the bolts. Dropped off some parts at the chrome plating shop and a month later picked them up.



 

After comparing the quality of finish of the NOS parts that I bought they were not up to par with re-chromed parts so I decided to get them re-chromed plus a few more parts, but this time it took 6 weeks to get them back.


 
I polished up and installed the rear fender with new grommets, stainless steel nuts and bolts with Loctite, rear fender stay, tail light assembly, reproduction lenses and gasket and new light bulb. My bike did not have reflectors so I installed LED reflectors that are the same size as the original but has 24 mini LEDs. Hopefully this will increase my life span when riding the bike.    


  
Notes: The fork covers should be silver and the rear fender brackets were black but I had those chromed. For the LED reflectors I made a little bullet connector jumper and connected it to the tail light. I bought a real nice connector kit (Model CK-1) at http://www.vintageconnections.com and it is made for Japanese vintage bikes and comes with a professional crimping tool that make a crimp that looks like the top of a M not like those cheap crimpers that make a flat crimp.

I have been working on the front end and had a few setbacks, ok a lot of setbacks. I know that there are a few people interested in the HID headlight mod but it looks like it will be a couple of weeks before I get the parts I need to finish the rest of the front end.

The mistake I made was ordering parts in advance so I would have the parts on hand but if I got a wrong or defective part I couldnít get my money back because it had been too long since I ordered the part. I have acquired a mountain of wrong or defective parts. Some days I feel like climbing to the top of this mountain and jumping off, with a parachute of course.  

Replaced all the oil pump O-rings and seals and got new oil lines.

Notes:
Oil Lines: I checked the pressure of the oil lines and they popped at about 1 psi. Installed reproduction balls and springs and they popped at about 1.5 psi. I took a Q-tip and cut in half and put in a dremel tool and used rubbing compound and tried to buff out the ball seat and got them to pop at about 2 psi. I didnít want to take any chances so I got all new oil lines.

I had a hard time finding the left oil line but was able to find someone that had one and convinced him to sell it to me and we agreed on a price. I was waiting for him to send me a PayPal invoice when he sent me an email saying that he had just listed it on eBay. I quickly went to eBay and there were 5 people watching it and I quickly clicked on Buy It Now and got it, man that was close.

Oil Pump: The oil pump on the 69 H1 had 2 issues, 1 it put out too much oil and 2 there was a problem with an O-ring leaking. I have the newer style oil pump the fixes both issues. It took me about three hours to rebuild the oil pump because the end cover would not fit flush; there was a gap between it and the oil pump body.

So I removed all three O-rings from the end cover side and the end cover fit flush then I installed one O-ring at a time and the end cover fit flush until I got to the O-ring that goes inside the end cover. I then removed the other two O-rings and the end cover would not fit flush. So now I know what the cause of the problem is. After scratching my head for a while I put the O-ring in some hot water for about five minutes and installed all the O-rings and now the end cover fit flush.

Now it was time to test the oil pump, according to the manual you need to run the bike at 2000 rpms for 3 minutes with the pump wide open and each line should put out between 5.05 to 5.83 cc of oil. I wanted to beach test the pump using a cordless drill with a spare oil pump gear shaft but I anticipated a problem with the oil pump gear shaft walking off the pump drive shaft. If you ever tried to drive in a slotted screw with a drill you know that the bit doesnít like to stay centered and tends to walk off the screw.

To overcome this possible problem I used a craftsman 3/4 inch 12 point 3/8 drive socket that fits perfect over the raised portion on the bottom of the oil pump, then a dremel tool sandpaper drum sleeve that I slit because it was a little bit too small. This sleeve fits inside the 3/8 drive part of the socket and acts as a bushing and with a shot of WD40 the oil pump gear shaft fits in there like it was made for it.


 
The drill I am using has a no load speed 900 rpms so I figure that with a slight load it should be spinning at about 850 rpms. According to Darth the crankshaft to oil pump gear ratio is 2.5666 to 1.
 

Darth wrote:
I determined that the crank to oil pump ratio is somewhere near 2.5666:1.
2.56 turns (revolutions) of the crank to 1 turns (revolutions) of the pump.
Darth

So after crunching the numbers this setup is equivalent to 2181.61 rpms. 850 rpms (Drill speed) X 2.5666 = 2181.61 rpms (Crankshaft speed) so that is very close to the 2000 rpms that the test should be performed at.



 

I put a funnel on the end of the input oil line and attached a string from the ceiling to the funnel and filled it up with 2 stroke oil and run the pump to fill up the oil lines then put cups under the ends of the oil lines and ran the test for 3 minutes with the oil pump wide open or close to it, the oil pump lever was turned 90 degrees from the stop position. I ended up with just a tad more than a teaspoon or about 5cc of oil per line.

Lot of hours and lots of Loctite. I kept setting the Loctite on the ground and forgetting about it I would usually end up accidently stepping on it and popping it like a zit, I should at least put the cap on to give it a fighting chance.

New tire, tube and tube protector. New DID rim and stainless steel spokes. New Vesrah brake shoes and new brake springs. New wheel bearings and seals. Polished up the front hub and re-chromed the brake cam levers and linkage.


  
New reproduction rear brake cable, speedometer cable, tachometer cable, clutch cable, throttle cable, starter cable and front brake cable. New reproduction main wiring harness. New Absorbed Glass Mat battery.

Polished up the front fender and re-chromed the struts and bracket and used polished stainless steel pan head screws. Re-chromed the fork lowers with new drain screws with gaskets. New fork tubes with dust boots, new fork seals and new O-rings for the re-chromed fork nuts and new O-rings for the re-chromed top fork bolts.


 
Upgraded the steering stem bearing to tapered roller bearings. Reproduction steering stem nut, reproduction steering dampener knob and new steering stabilizer.

New grommets for the re-chromed handle bar clamps with chromed bolts. New grommets for the speedometer/tachometer bracket and had the gauges rebuilt by Don Fulsang. He does good work and you can find his contact info on this site under Sales and Service.


 
Re-chromed the fork covers with new gaskets and re-chromed head light bucket with new rim and a metal halide light. Re-chromed handle bars with new grips.

New upper and lower left handlebar control with new harness, horn button and turn signal knob.  Wired up the LED reflectors and got them just hanging until I install the gas tank.


Notes
Metal Halide Light: Also known as a HID light or more commonly known as a xenon light. Ok, I know what youíre thinking, but hold on there and hear me out before you judge me. Now xenon lights have got a bad reputation because of blinding the oncoming traffic because of improper installation. Some people get a conversion kit with a bulb that has a high color temperature that puts out a blue light. They think the blue light looks cool and donít care about blinding oncoming traffic.

The best way to go is with a projector.  


 
A projector consists of a reflector, shield and a lens. In the low beam position the shield blocks half of the light creating a light cutoff point, below the light cutoff point there is light, above the light cutoff point there is no light so you wonít blind the oncoming traffic. Here is a picture that I got off the internet showing the light cutoff.


 
When you switch to high beam a solenoid lowers the shield and you get full light coverage. The problem I had with a projector is that they are 6 inches long and I only have 3 Ĺ inches from the headlight glass to the back of the headlight bucket.

The second best way to go is with a shielded bulb. So I found a kit that has a shield around the bulb. The OPT7 AC Slim Hid Kit H4 Bi-Xenon 5000k is a real nice kit. It has a AC ballast that is more efficient and stable than the cheap DC ballast and has a color temperature of 5000 kelvin. The 4300k light has a tint of yellow and the 6000k has a tint of blue and the 5000k is the goldilocks bulb, just right.


 
This OPT7 kit is rated at 35 watts, but that is the output, and if I did the math right it should have about 42 watts going into the ballast after the bulb has stabilized, but during startup it is going to suck about 120 watts so using the included relay is a must.

I had to do some creative wiring by running a dedicated fused power and ground wire coming from the battery going to the relay. There was an inline fuse near the relay that I relocated to the battery box so if I blow a fuse I wonít have to remove the gas tank to replace the fuse.

So now I needed to stuff the ballast, a relay control box and some other box (I think itís an anti-flicker unit) under the gas tank. It was like trying to put 20 pounds of potatoes in a 10 pound sack, unfortunately the sack was already full with the 118db dual air horn. Trying to cram all that stuff under the gas tank turned out to be one of the greatest feats in engineering history.


 
I also had to do some more creative wiring on the high/low light switch wires. I cut off the H4 three spade connector that is on the xenon kit and grounded the blue wire that went to the H4 connector (Ground) to the horn bracket bolt and extended the white wire that went to the H4 connector (Low beam) to a bullet connector Y that I made up that is connected to the main harness blue wire and the other part of the Y has the blue wire that goes to the left handlebar control.

The other wire that went to the H4 connector is a Brown wire (High beam) and that goes to another bullet Y connector that I made up that plugs into the red/black wire coming from the left handlebar control and the red/black wire coming from the high beam indicator light. The red/yellow wire coming from the left handlebar control is not used.


 
I did not want to ruin the original rare non sealed beam headlight so I bought a sealed beam headlight and cut off the light bulb and enlarged the hole a little. The shield had 2 screws at the base so I cut 2 notches in the headlight so the shield would sit flush.


 
The shield is glued into the headlight using epoxy resin and is rotated counter clockwise just a bit to make the light cutoff dip a little on the left side. In countries where you drive on the left side of the road you would want to rotate it clockwise a little to make the light cutoff dip a little on the right side.


 
Horn Button: The manual says the part number for the horn button is 27010-1009 but it was too big, so I found the part number 46028-003 is the right one

Brake and Clutch Perches: The original owner replaced the perches with these ones from a Honda; I like how the mirrors attach to the perches like on the later years.

Front Brake Cam Lever: I went to install the cam lever and it wouldnít go on, after closer examination the splines were damaged. So I found a NOS one in the UK and after I got it I had it re-chromed.

Steering Stabilizer: From what I understand this was a dealer installed option in 69. On my bike the bracket is welded to the gas tank bolt hole. I donít know if the dealer installed it of if the original owner did.

Fork Tubes: The original owner added 1Ē springs on top of the original springs, so I will try it and see how firm it is. Installed Bel Ray 15w fork oil.

Fork Covers: The original owner chromed the fork covers and I think they look better than being painted silver so I had them re-chromed.

Ignition Switch: When I tested the electrical system the ignition switch didnít feel right, it didnít click right when I turned it on. Then I started seeing what looked like smoke coming from the headlight bucket, I thought it might be steam because the day before I had washed out the inside of the headlight, then I started seeing smoke coming from the main harness and from the battery box.

I turned the key off but everything was still on. I try to remove the fuse and the fuse holder was real hot and the fuse would not come out. I ended up breaking the glass on the fuse and the ends of the fuse were welded to the contacts. I took apart the ignition switch and it look like one of the contacts was shorting out against the housing.


 
Because the ignition switch is on the rubber mounted handlebars when the ignition switch shorted out it was looking for a ground and it found one, right through my new front brake cable and it fried it good and ended up welded the cable to the jacket.

I was worried that it may have damaged the fork tubes because the current must have flowed up the forks. After I got another front brake cable I was able to test the forks and when I push down on the front end there is a loud scraping sound coming from the right fork and when it tops out it makes a loud banging sound. I will have to take it apart later to see whatís wrong.

I also replaced the main wiring harness with a reproduction harness.

I want to thank 12dot for coming to the rescue and giving me a good deal on an ignition switch, thanks again 12dot.

The original owner relocated the ignition switch to the handle bars and I like it up there. If you ever had a bike stick wide open you will appreciate having the ignition switch on the handle bars.

Ok it was a mini bike but it was a fast mini bike. It had a 8hp Briggs and Station engine and it was belt driven and had makeshift clutch, a pulley on a spring loaded arm. The spring would pull down on the arm and a clutch cable would pull up on the arm to let the belt slip.

It was geared real tall and I would push start it as fast as I could and it was just barely chugging along, then hop on and pull in the clutch and let it rev up, then my buddy would hop on and I would keep on pumping the clutch until we got up to speed. I had a friend clock me and my buddy on the 405 freeway doing 65mph.

I remember we use to take it on the Santa Ana river trail and were harassing joggers and bicycle riders as we buzzed by at full speed. One day on the Santa Ana river trail we were buzzing along and we came up to a under pass the goes under a road crossing and I went to back off on the throttle and nothing happened. Did I mention the mini bike did not have any brakes; my parents were stumped as to why I went through so many shoes.

Anyway we were doing about 65mph and quickly approaching the under pass and my buddy started lightly tapping me on the shoulder, then harder and harder, I started shaking my head back and forth and was twisting throttle back and forth rapidly. My buddy reached under and gave it full choke to kill the motor and we both applied the Fred Flintstone brakes. We slowed down enough so we didnít get airborne when we hit the steeply sloped under pass.

What had happened was that the bolts holding the governor plate on had vibrated loose and fell out and the governor plate fell down and was holding the carburetor wide open. We were able to rig up the governor plate with some sticks and a shoe lace to get us home.

Man, those were the good old days, who knows maybe in the future I will look back at today and say "Those Were The Good Old Days".

I went way overboard on the transmission, one thing lead to another and the next thing I knew I had replaced every gear in the transmission.

All transmission parts are NOS except for the oil seal and the Koyo ball bearings.
1st Gear Output Shaft, 2nd Gear Drive Shaft, 2nd Gear Output Shaft, 3rd Gear Drive Shaft, 3rd Gear Output Shaft, 4th Gear Output Shaft, 4th Gear Drive Shaft, 5th Gear Output Shaft, 5th Gear Drive Shaft, Input Drive Shaft, Selector Fork Top, Selector Fork Low, Selector Fork 2nd & 3rd , Select Fork Guide Pins, Ball Bearings, Needle Bearings, Needle Bearings Bushings, Circle clips, Shims, Seals, O-rings, Kick starter shaft, Kick starter shaft bushing and rebuilt crankshaft.


 
Notes:
Crankshaft: Had the crankshaft rebuilt by Dave Singleton. I had the pleasure to meet Dave and let me tell you he is a profession and a perfectionist and thatís exactly the kind of guy that you want working on your bike. You can find him at http://davestriples.com. Used Loctite 620 on the main bearings.

Drive Shaft:  I went to rebuild the drive shaft and noticed that there was no bushing inside 5th Gear. I had ordered 5th gear with part number 13136-041, but the seller substituted it with part number 13136-022 without the bushing. Had the part for too long to get a refund so I ordered another gear from someone else.

Output Shaft: Assembled the output shaft and put in the upper case and spun it and the 4th Gear had a bad wobble. The grove that the shift fork goes in moved up and down and back and forth. Had the part for too long to get a refund so I ordered another gear from someone else.

Clutch Push Rod Seal: Installed the clutch push rod seal with part number 92050-070 for the ball bearing clutch release assembly.

Shims: Shimmed the transmission using the service manual, service bulletin and Motometal's instructions.

Kick starter shaft: After having an issue with bad splines on my front brake cam lever I checked to make sure the kick starter would go on and it wouldnít because of bad splines on the kick starter shaft, so I ordered a new kick starter shaft and bushing.

Crankcase: Chased all the crankcase studs with nuts and installed stainless steel nuts and used Three Bond 1184 to seal the crankcase halves.

ThreePipesSmokin wrote:
When shimming, you really want to install the clutch basket and sprocket (not necessarily torqued, just snug) to pre-load the shafts as they will be when installed. You'll be surprised how much the clearance changes...  salut

Yes you are so right, unfortunately the motor is completely assembled. I did make sure the ball bearings were fully seated and did push and pull on the shafts so hopefully everything is ok.

New 61.50 mm Wiseco pistons and Wiseco bearings, new cylinder head studs, painted the cylinders satin black and polished the heads. Installed the generator rotor, signal rotor and yoke assembly and set the timing and air gap.


Itís finally starting to look like a motorcycle. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and itís not a freight train.

New clutch friction plates, steel plates, steel rings (Wafer springs), clutch springs, clutch hub bearing and bushing, gear change lever, distributor bearings, distributor gear, tachometer gear, distributor rotor, shifter seals, kick starter seal, 15t sprocket and case screws. Cleaned out all screw and bolt holes with a wire bottle brush and spray carb cleaner. Installed a used ball bearing clutch release. Lined up the distributor rotor and installed the clutch cover. Installed the motor in the frame and shimmed up the engine mount bolts with fender washers. Installed the re-chromed kick starter with new rubber and a new re-chromed shifter with new rubber and re-chromed linkage and shifter rubber cap. Filled up the transmission with Bel-Ray 80w gear oil.

Notes:

Clutch Friction Plates: Bought some EBC clutch friction plates and soaked them in gear oil for about four hours and installed them and the tabs hit the distributor pinion gear. The tabs on the EBC plates are a little bit taller than the ones on the stock plates so I ground them down a bit then deburred and scrubbed them clean and re-soaked them in oil.


 

Clutch Springs: Bought some EBC clutch springs but they donít fit right; the spring diameter is a little smaller. The spring tower on the hub flairs out at the bottom and the springs goes on about 3 quarters of the way down before they get wedged on the spring towers. I bought some Barnett springs and they fit right.

Gear Change Lever: Upgraded to a new welded gear change lever as the original one was staked and had a lot of slop in it.

Sheís alive, sheís alive, my fire breathing asphalt eating wheelie machine is finally on the road.

The original owner converted the screw on gas cap to a flip up cap and after removing the bondo it looks like they ran a continuous weld bead and it distorted the tank real bad but after about a month I got it looking pretty good.


 
Polished the crankcase covers and installed new case screws and installed the oil pump and lines.

Rebuilt the carburetors with sudco kits and installed 35 pilot jets and 110 main jets and set the needle clip to the 3rd grove. New carburetor rubber top caps and starter caps. Installed new large K&N air filters.

Installed tinned plated copper core silicone spark plug wires with NGK caps and NGK iridium spark plugs and installed a set of Higgspeed expansion chambers.

New side cover emblem, side cover protectors, reproduction knob with rubber grommet. New oil tank pipe with gaskets and oil level pipe with gauge and clamps and a new reproduction seat

I painted the battery box cover with Chrysler stone white and sanded it and shot just the inside with clear coat to compare clear and non-clear and I like the non-clear better, looks more vintage. I used royal blue on the tank and no clear coat; I will have to be careful when refueling not to get any gas on the tank.  

Notes:
I put the white side cover emblem (1969) on and I didnít like the look of white on white so I got a black side cover emblem (1970) it may not be correct but it looks a lot better in my opinion.

She is running very rich on low throttle, has kind of a sputtering sound so I will go back to the 30 pilot jets. Mid throttle sounds good but wide open there is a very slight hesitation, itís not stumbling just a very slight delay so I will go down to a 107.5 main jets and see what happens. I installed the 30 pilot jets and 107.5 main jets and she runs a lot better.

The pictures did not come out to good but here are some before and after pictures. I will take some more pictures later once I figure out how to use this camera as these pictures do the bike no justices.

 


Still need to do a little more sorting and re torque the heads and check all the nuts and bolts and as Jeff said I need to recheck the carbs to make sure they are still sync'ed. I plan on changing the gear oil in about 100 miles.

I need to post a picture of something so here are most of the parts tags.