BREAKING IN
  The first 1,600 km (1,000 mi) that the motorcycle is ridden is designated as the break-in-period. If the motorcycle is not used carefully during this period, you may very well end up with a "broken down" instead of a "broken in" motorcycle after a few thousand kilometers.
  The following rules should be observed during the break-in period.
Maximum engine speed during the break-in-period.
Distance traveled                         Maximum engine speed
0~800km (0~500mi)                     4,000 rpm
800~1,600 km (500~1,000 mi)     6,000 rpm
Do not start moving or race the engine directly after starting it, even if the engine is already warm. Run the engine for two or three minutes at 1,000~1,500 rpm to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts.
Do not race the engine while the gears are in neutral.
The slow riding necessary during the break-in period may cause carbon to build up on the spark plugs and foul them. If inspection of the spark plugs shows this to be the case, replace the standard NGK B9HCS with B8HCS (S1C), NGK B8HCS with B7HCS (S3A) for the duration of the break-in-period.
  In addition to the above, the owner should take the motorcycle to an authorized Kawasaki Dealer for initial periodic maintenance service at 800~1,600 km (500~1,000 mi).
HOW TO RIDE THE MOTORCYCLE
STARTING THE ENGINE
Check that the steering is unlocked.
Turn the fuel tap to On.
Make certain the engine stop switch is turned to the RUN position.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Make certain the gears are in neutral by seeing that the green neutral indicator light is lit.
lf the engine is cold, push the choke lever, leaving the throttle    completely closed.
Check that the right rear footrest is fold up.
Kick the engine over.
Even after the engine starts, keep the choke lever pushed in.        When the engine is warm enough to idle without the use of the        choke lever, release the lever.
Note: When the engine is already warm or on hot days, open the throttle part way instead of using the choke lever. Then kick over the engine. If the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully open until the engine starts.
MOVING OFF
Check that the side (kick) stand is up.
Pull in the clutch lever.
Shift into 1st gear.
Open the throttle a little, and start to let out on the clutch lever very slowly.
As the clutch starts to engage, open the throttle a little more, giving the engine just enough fuel to keep it from stalling.
SHIFTING GEARS
Close the throttle while pulling in the clutch lever at the same time.
Shift into the next higher or lower gear.
Open the throttle part way, and release the clutch lever.
CAUTION: When shifting down to a lower gear,do not shift at such a high speed that the engine is suddenly jerked into high rpm or into the red zone. Not only can this cause engine damage, but the rear wheel may skid and cause an accident. Downshifting should be done below 5,000 rpm for each gear.
BRAKING
Close the throttle completely, leaving the clutch engaged (except when shifting gears) so that the engine will help slow down the motorcycle.
Shift down one gear at a time so that you are finally in 1st gear just when you get completely stopped.
When stopping, always apply both brakes at the same time if stopping quickly; normally the front brake should be applied a little more than the rear. Downshift or fully disengage the clutch as necessary to keep the engine from stalling or to stop more quickly.
Never lock the brakes and cause the tires to skid. On a curve or when turning a corner it is better not to brake at all, but if this is unavoidable, use only the rear brake.
For emergency braking, disregard downshifting, and concentrate on applying the brakes as hard as possible without skidding.
STOPPING THE ENGINE
Close the throttle completely.
Shift the gears into neutral.
Turn the ignition switch off, or if only stopping for a short time on the road at night, turn it to "Park".
Lock the steering.