Battery Eliminator
Tired of replacing the battery or acid leaking on your
pipes? Replace it with a 50,000-mfd,
16VDC computer grade capacitor.
What to do:
- Remove
battery.
- Wrap
capacitor in ¼” to ½” foam sponge rubber extending over each end of
capacitor and tape it so it will not come off. The foam should be thick enough so the capacitor is a snug
fit in the battery box.
- Connect
the black lead (-) to a clean tight ground. Remove paint and use serrated washer under ground lead bolt.
- Connect
the red lead (+) as the battery hot lead was connected.
Installation test:
- Turn
lights off.
- Start
bike and run for at least one minute.
- Turn
bike off.
- Turn
ignition on, neutral lamp should light for 5 to 15 seconds. (Capacitor should hold this charge for
days)
System check with bike running:
- Connect
voltmeter across ground and capacitor hot lead.
- At
1500 RPM or above, voltmeter should read 13-15 volts with a steady meter,
that is, the reading should not change or bounce around.
- With
the lights on, voltage should be 12 volts or above if RPM is 1500 or
above.
- At
1500 RPM or below, voltage will drop if turn signals or brake light are
used.
Note: If voltage readings at 1500 RPM are above 16 volts or below 12
volts, the voltage regulator is probably defective. This also causes short bulb life.
The battery eliminator solves a number of problems:
- Battery
acid leaking on pipes, wheels, etc.
- Frequent
battery replacement due to vibration.
- Elimination
of battery weight.
- Voltage
swings of defective battery resulting in weak spark, CDI failure, light
failure, etc.
Disadvantages of battery eliminator are:
- Lights
won’t work if bike is not running.