Battery Eliminator


Tired of replacing the battery or acid leaking on your pipes?  Replace it with a 50,000-mfd, 16VDC computer grade capacitor.


What to do:

  1. Remove battery.
  2. Wrap capacitor in ¼” to ½” foam sponge rubber extending over each end of capacitor and tape it so it will not come off.  The foam should be thick enough so the capacitor is a snug fit in the battery box.
  3. Connect the black lead (-) to a clean tight ground.  Remove paint and use serrated washer under ground lead bolt.
  4. Connect the red lead (+) as the battery hot lead was connected.


Installation test:

  1. Turn lights off.
  2. Start bike and run for at least one minute.
  3. Turn bike off.
  4. Turn ignition on, neutral lamp should light for 5 to 15 seconds.  (Capacitor should hold this charge for days)


System check with bike running:

  1. Connect voltmeter across ground and capacitor hot lead.
  2. At 1500 RPM or above, voltmeter should read 13-15 volts with a steady meter, that is, the reading should not change or bounce around.
  3. With the lights on, voltage should be 12 volts or above if RPM is 1500 or above.
  4. At 1500 RPM or below, voltage will drop if turn signals or brake light are used.


Note:  If voltage readings at 1500 RPM are above 16 volts or below 12 volts, the voltage regulator is probably defective.  This also causes short bulb life.


The battery eliminator solves a number of problems:

  1. Battery acid leaking on pipes, wheels, etc.
  2. Frequent battery replacement due to vibration.
  3. Elimination of battery weight.
  4. Voltage swings of defective battery resulting in weak spark, CDI failure, light failure, etc.


Disadvantages of battery eliminator are:

  1. Lights won’t work if bike is not running.