Ignition coil wire replacement made easy:

Get a set of Accel 3008 plug wires. These are universal fit solid core plug wires. Downside is that they are yellow. Napa can get black, but they sell it in 100 foot rolls...a bit much for a triple.

Take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and grind the epoxy away from the HT lead on the coil with the bad wire. Leave about 1/4 inch of material at the back of the hump where the coil wire goes into the coil. This will expose the rubber coated HT lead.

Cut the HT lead off the coil leaving about an inch sticking out of the coil.

Strip the insulation off of the HT lead up to the point where you stopped grinding away the epoxy.

Strip an inch of the insulation off of the new piece of coil wire that you will be using.

Twist the new wire to the bare HT lead now sticking out of the coil and solder the joint. Try to leave the gap between the old insulation and the new wire's insulation as small as possible...1/4 inch is fine.

Take a pair of cutters and snip the tail off of the soldered joint as close as possible. Crunch the joint so that the remains of the tail is parallel to the plug wire. This minimizes the possibility of a thin spot in the insulation you are going to put on in the next step.

Then get a can of red Plasti-dip (H2 coils are red) and some 2 part epoxy. Coat the repair with plasti-dip. It will take many coats to build up enough insulation to handle a coil without arcing, but not nearly as much as will be required to build up the repair to shape and format of the original coil. I use cheap craft store popsicle sticks as applicators for the Plasti-dip and epoxy...costs about $3.00 for a box of 1000. NOTE: Home Depot no longer sells Plasti-dip. Lowes Home Improvement does...$6.75 or so / can

Once you get the Plasti-dip built up to where you want it, coat the repair with the 2 part epoxy for chemical resistance (gas, oil, etc.)

End result...a functionally good coil that looks reasonably close to a stock coil. No restorer would be fooled, but you're coils won't arc.