Troubleshooting Missing Spark
on Late H1 (KH) on Single Cylinder

Use as reference.

If there is spark to any cylinder then the CDI, pickups, and ignition stator winding are all good and can be ruled out as problem items. These components are common to all cylinders and if defective there will be no spark to any cylinder. Coil mounting grounding is required. Sparkplug lead should be solid copper core with non resistive cap.

The only components that can be defective for a single cylinder to not spark is the ignition coil, plug lead, or brush/rotor contact (assuming good sparkplug). Engine should have ground wire attached between engine and frame.

Brush Contact  Test:
-Disconnect the blue, green, & black plugin leads at the coil.
-Connect ohmmeter (Rx1 scale) between the disconnected lead (blue, green, black) to main wiring harness and frame/battery ground.
-As the motor is rotated (manually or thru kicker w/plugs removed) 360 degrees there should be a point that resistance measures near zero ohms on each lead.
Failure to obtain a near zero reading means that the brushes are not making good contact with the rotor or there is a wiring problem. Examine brushes and clean rotor contact surfaces with rubbing alcohol.

Ignition Coil Test:
Primary Winding:
-Connect ohmmeter (Rx1 scale) between the disconnected lead (blue, green, black) to opposite coil terminal.
-Reading should be 0.8 ohm.
Any reading significantly differing would indicate a defective coil.
Secondary Winding:
-Connect ohmmeter (Rx1K scale) between the sparkplug cap and frame/battery ground.
-Reading should be near 4.5K.
Any reading significantly higher than specified indicates a defective coil or poor wiring connection at cap.
If  reading is higher than specified, remove sparkplug lead and retest from coil lead connection on coil to ground. A high reading would indicate coil is not grounded or the coil is defective. A good reading would indicate the lead is defective.

Troubleshooting Missing Spark on All Cylinders
on Late H1 (KH)

If there is no spark to any cylinder:
Be sure kill switch is in "Run" position.

Ignition Winding (stator) Test:
-Disconnect the two pin plug with brown and orange wires between the CDI and engine.
-Connect ohmmeter (Rx100 scale) between the two pins on the cable to engine.
-Reading should be near 116 ohms.
A low reading would indicate shorted windings in the coil. A high reading would indicate a defective connection.

-Measure between either pin to engine case.
-An infinite (no reading) should be obtained.
Any reading would indicate the coil is shorted to mounting surface.

Pickup Test:
-Disconnect the single white wire connector between CDI and engine.
-Connect ohmmeter (Rx100 scale) between the pin on the cable to engine and engine case.
-Reading should be near 130 ohms.
This tests both pickups at the same time. If the reading is too high or low the pickups should be tested individually. This requires disconnecting white wiring on the pickups inside the cover.
-Individual readings on each pickup between white wire connection point and engine case should be 260+/- 20 ohms.
Any reading out of spec would indicate pickup should be replaced.

CDI Unit:
If all of the above tests check out acceptable then the CDI is suspect.
The CDI is in two units. The "A" unit has numerous wires connected and it generates the spark from the pickups. The smaller "B" unit is a filter for the spark and would rarely be cause for failure.
Remove and replace with known good unit is the best test for either CDI box.