Clutch Pusher

With a stock clutch pusher, the pusher itself turns with the pressure plate when the clutch is released. This pressure against the ball bearing should not transfer to the clutch pushrod, as if it did, friction would friction weld the pushrod to the pusher. When the clutch is released, and transmission is out of gear, the pusher turns with the pressure plate, but the pushrods don't turn, they are in tension and are stopped from turning. Pushrod stopped from turning, pusher turning, welding begins.

The friction area between pusher and pushrod is large compared to the pusher to ball to pushrod. Less friction area, less chance of welding.

When the pressure is relieved on the rod to pusher, the pusher turns with the input shaft to ball to pushrod. An alternative is the ball/needle pusher as its main body doesn't spin with the pressure plate.

Most people here are used to the aluminum pressure plates in S and later H series clutches. Early H series clutches used a stamped steel pressure plate, with a punched tab area in the middle of it, that engaged with a slot cut in the pusher. This interface ensured the pusher spun with the pressure plate, and not with the ball/pushrod.

I have seen a few of the bearings welded to the pushrods, when stuff like synthetic "oils" are used in the transmission.

I have never used a ball/needle pusher in any of my three cylinders, but then, I haven't run synthetic snake oils in the transmissions either. I always run either an 80W90 or 85W90 natural gear oil in them.