Convert S Series Points to Electronic Ignition

An electronic ignition is offered by Accent, a German company, and sold by KawaTripleParts in UK. It fires one cylinder at a time.
This is NOT a CDI ignition.

How to Convert S Series Points to Late H1 CDI

m in sc wrote:

Okay, got her finished up. overall it was fairly straightforward.

For starters, the rotor and cover and stator bolt on, pretty easy. The notch in the case for the wires to pass through needed to be opened up just a hair as the H1 ignition has more wires going to it, but otherwise its a bolt on affair, sort of.

The problem lies with the keyway location vs the correct timing needs for an S2.  Specs I have, have S2 ignition timing at 2.60MM BTDC. To achieve this, i had to rotate the pickup plate beyond its adjustment. this was done by drilling and tapping new screw holes in the stator housing. Be very careful. This is necessary to allow the coil grounding brushes to line up correctly.

Here's the 2 pics, first one is of the pickup plate mounted "stock", second is new location for S series:

It basically puts the second pickup at 3 o'clock when you look at the bike, and the first one at 7 o'clock or so.

Next was the marking of the rotor for timing. I made a pointer out of a cotter pin and using a dial gauge. Set the timing on #1.. marked the rotor with a dremel and an engraving bit (outside the slip ring surface BTW) and bent the cotter pin to line up. (With the plate rotated you can't see the ones on the rotor that were already there.)

You will need to reclock the trigger also. Looking at the back of the trigger, if you had the notch at 9 o'clock, you would need to cut a new one at approx 1 o'clock or so. since there isn't room next to the original, it needs to be placed there. Again, used a small dremel bit.
(sorry, no pics of that.)

The kill switch...
As suspected, the key switch is setup w/provisions for a CDI ignition. Taking the headlight out, and looking at the wiring, lo and behold, there's the black and white and black and yellow wire needed to kill the CDI, but nothing attached to it. So, I took another junk molex I had, removed 2 pins, installed them on the harness side of the plug... black/yellow went to ground in the headlight bucket, black/white went back down the harness to the CDI boxes.

I removed the whole battery box, reg/rectifier, etc. out of the S2 since I planned on running a capacitor in place of a battery. This left tons of room under there.
As far as mounting, I did do one unreversible mod, and that was to drill a spare hole in the bracket that holds the original battery box in. It's the one closest to the frame rail in the next pic. I aimed the rectifier down, and the ign boxes up. Plenty of room under the seat for air to move and keep things cool. The plate also uses the stock H1 isolators to keep it safe from vibration.

Wiring was pretty straightforward. I made a subharness from the coils to the ignition... red/white wires to the white wire on the coils, and 3 grounding wires to each coil. The motor fires 1-3-2 so use a continuity tester between each wire and frame ground and a dial gauge to figure out which one needs to go where, ie, when cyl 1 is at 2.60, whatever of the 3 wires has connectivity to ground, that wire goes to coil for # 1 cyl. Put dial gauge in # 3, repeat, that's the wire for coil 3.

Coil mounting.. I made a small 90 degree bracket out of 1/2" angle iron. The coil fit roughly in the stock locations, but the brackets needed to be tweaked a bit, etc. Up to you how you want to do it. sorry, no pic.

As far as tying into the stock wiring, the only real thing I had to do was make a bullet-to-spade adapter for the neutral light. The stock H1 battery charging lead went straight into the S2 hot lead for the harness and I pigtailed off of that for the capacitor... fairly easy.

Here is the cover installed:

Kinda wide, eh?

I set the timing (I run it at 2.55 BTDC to keep detonation away) and it ran great... very smooth.

If you have access to the parts and are comfy with doing some wiring, I say go for it. Also, this is completely reversible if need be.

I will say this... it definitely opened up some power. The clutch started to slip a little in 3rd. Mind you, stock motor, stock pipes, 3 Barnett springs in clutch with new plates and Gearsaver in the tranny. Before it didn't do that... I adjusted and its okay but it freed up some HP somewhere, probably due to a way hotter spark and perfect timing synch between cyls.

Finally, plug check after few mile ride... (it already had miles on it)